1/10/2024 0 Comments Rawtherapee milky way![]() Some will fit in your backpack for travel. Very good for planets or bright objects, not for deep sky faint objects. hybrids, like Schmidt-Cassegrains: very compact telescopes, uses mirror and lens, high magnification/focal lengths but has lower light gathering ability. Smaller diameters, no collimation and maintenance to do. Expensive, heavy, but better image quality. refractors (=lenses): basically like a big telephoto. reflectors (=mirrors) telescopes: cheap, big apertures, light, good for deep sky, but need maintenance (aligning the mirrors from time to time) Its not difficult but can be scary the first times. Then for the scope itself, there are 3 main types, again it depends on what you want to do: If you want to do only visual atronomy, it will be cheaper. You will spend at least €1000-1200 for your scope and mount. And for a starter telescope, it really depends what you plan to do, and how much you're ready to invest.īasically, if you want to do any kind of astrophotography (except the moon), you will need a tracking (equatorial) mount. DeepSkyStacker software to stack my images. My current setup is: 200/1000mm Skywatcher telescope, Canon 6D, EQ5 mount, Astronomik CLS filter for light pollution. The next step was to upgrade my camera (to full frame) and buy filters to remove the light pollution. With this tracking mount and this scope I started taking longer exposures (60 to 90 second) and was able to see more details in my objects. (its still less expensive than a good telephoto lens! about 1200€ for the scope and mount). But a f/12 is not very good for deep sky, so I upgraded to a f/5, heavier and bigger reflector telescope. I shot my first nebulae and galaxies witht this (M42, andromeda, M33 etc). ![]() I then bought a better mount with tracking (EQ5). But I was limited by the exposure time, because this scope had no tracking, and I wanted to shoot deep sky objects. I took my first shots of the moon and saturn with this. I bought a T2 ring to connect my camera to it. Its a light, inexpensive, small telescope. Then I bought my first scope, a f/12 cassegrain. I started with my Canon 1100D, my dad's old 200mm lens, and I tripod. And if you really like it, buy a telescope and start trying to take pictures of deep sky objects or planets. You can take milky way shots with your kit lens, try to expose longer and longer. What's cool about astrophoto is that you have a big variety of objects, from very small to very big, and very faint to very bright. Left is almost what you can see through a good eyepiece when you look at M42 (except the colors) And I dont live on magical stable boat, just a small swiss village with relatively dark skies :')Īnd heres the difference on a frame between a M42 is very bright and you can get very nice details in relatively short exposures. ![]() This is a single frame, no stacking for this one. I used the astronomik cls for some of my older images with the 1100D, but I had to buy a new one for the full frame camera, and didnt have the chance to test it yet. Unmodded 6D, no filters for this picture. I use Deepskystacker for the stacking and basic level/curves adjustments. Thanks! here's a single raw (top) and under it the result after stacking 90 of these (+dark frames for noise reduction).
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